Front Wheel Bearing/Hub Replacement
- StaticMotion
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Front Wheel Bearing/Hub Replacement
Hi all,
OK I hope the link below goes to the right file, it's now pdf and word doc whichever you fancy. It's quite a basic how to and it doesn't cover removal of the brakes, disc etc because Bodsy's guide is so good it made no sense writing what he covers so well in his brake bible. When I next do one I'll make sure it's warm, sunny and I create a more comprehensive guide, but for the average diy mechanic it's a doable job just don't expect every nut and bolt to do what you want it to
It can be an easy job or can be a to get off. In my case today it was the latter
Just make sure you have plenty time cause thing won't always go to plan I have included a bit on how to remove the whole bracket if the hub won't come off because if it's seized on your going to need the whole lot off to get the momentum to free it.
Hope it's of some help. If someone knows exact torque settings for the ones to the wishbones and track rod end feel free to say cause I don;t and I just used common sense tightness which has served me well in the past.
OK I hope the link below goes to the right file, it's now pdf and word doc whichever you fancy. It's quite a basic how to and it doesn't cover removal of the brakes, disc etc because Bodsy's guide is so good it made no sense writing what he covers so well in his brake bible. When I next do one I'll make sure it's warm, sunny and I create a more comprehensive guide, but for the average diy mechanic it's a doable job just don't expect every nut and bolt to do what you want it to
It can be an easy job or can be a to get off. In my case today it was the latter
Just make sure you have plenty time cause thing won't always go to plan I have included a bit on how to remove the whole bracket if the hub won't come off because if it's seized on your going to need the whole lot off to get the momentum to free it.
Hope it's of some help. If someone knows exact torque settings for the ones to the wishbones and track rod end feel free to say cause I don;t and I just used common sense tightness which has served me well in the past.
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Last edited by StaticMotion on Mon Apr 23, 2012 7:16 pm, edited 2 times in total.
CLUB - Snuck off and bought a FFRR TDV8 Westminster, Mariana Black.
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- StaticMotion
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Re: Front Wheel Bearing/Hub Replacement
I haven't tackled them yet, my front was pig enough for one day. The bearing had locked solid in and the hub refused point blank to come out but as per guide there's always a way.
I will tackle the rear ones if and when they go and under no circumstances in temperatures below at the very least 13 degrees!
I will tackle the rear ones if and when they go and under no circumstances in temperatures below at the very least 13 degrees!
CLUB - Snuck off and bought a FFRR TDV8 Westminster, Mariana Black.
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Re: Front Wheel Bearing/Hub Replacement
Craig,
Good write up
If you have word, if you SaveAs you can pick PDF as a file type - assuming 2007 or later (Possibly 2004, but I can't remember now!)
Good write up
If you have word, if you SaveAs you can pick PDF as a file type - assuming 2007 or later (Possibly 2004, but I can't remember now!)
Mark
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Waeco CFX 40
1977 Triumph Spitfire 1500
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Re: Front Wheel Bearing/Hub Replacement
Well done Craig, easy to follow write up
I did both of mine recently and they were both seized solid
I found all of the first hub assembly bolts a right to get out, so on the second, instead of just wire brushing the threads. I used a senior hack-saw blade to clean them, they came out nice and easy then
Next i struggled getting one of the drive shafts to break free. I just used a large brass drift a short handled sledgehammer
And to remove the hub assembly, I just used cold chisels and some heat and very slowly drifted them out (only use good quality cold chisels).
Easy enough job to do, just alot more time consuming than you think
I did both of mine recently and they were both seized solid
I found all of the first hub assembly bolts a right to get out, so on the second, instead of just wire brushing the threads. I used a senior hack-saw blade to clean them, they came out nice and easy then
Next i struggled getting one of the drive shafts to break free. I just used a large brass drift a short handled sledgehammer
And to remove the hub assembly, I just used cold chisels and some heat and very slowly drifted them out (only use good quality cold chisels).
Easy enough job to do, just alot more time consuming than you think
- StaticMotion
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Re: Front Wheel Bearing/Hub Replacement
anglefire wrote:Craig,
Good write up
If you have word, if you SaveAs you can pick PDF as a file type - assuming 2007 or later (Possibly 2004, but I can't remember now!)
Thanks, I never thought of saving as PDF from word top tip I shall do that now and add a pdf link
CLUB - Snuck off and bought a FFRR TDV8 Westminster, Mariana Black.
- StaticMotion
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Re: Front Wheel Bearing/Hub Replacement
My chisels are old and crappy and I figured I'd do more damage than good with them but good idea.Kingmav66 wrote: And to remove the hub assembly, I just used cold chisels and some heat and very slowly drifted them out (only use good quality cold chisels).
Easy enough job to do, just alot more time consuming than you think
It's actaully quite easy to get the whole lot off bracket and all, more so than I initially thought which allows for the lot to be taken indoors to give more time and space (an blooming heat) to remove the hub. My local garage was very very kind and pressed mine out so I was lucky.
Edit - wish I'd thought of trying hacksaw blade too, I got bolt 4 almost all the way out and then it locked solid and as I was daft enough to have a multi point socket on the bolt it rounded Well once the whole lot was off managed to get the bolt out ... I should get a new bolt tomorrow as it's been ordered.
One other thing I would say, the torx screw holding the disk in - if there is any sign of damage on the inner star head best just buy a new one for 95p cause mine had a bit of damage the last time I took it out to do the disks and I foolishly re-used it ...boy was it it a pain to get out!
CLUB - Snuck off and bought a FFRR TDV8 Westminster, Mariana Black.
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Re: Front Wheel Bearing/Hub Replacement
Excellent write-up
All 'how-to' documents should contain a 'throwing the toys out' section (or in my case, swearing solidly for 5 minutes without ever repeating myself - no wonder I'm barred from Church...)
All 'how-to' documents should contain a 'throwing the toys out' section (or in my case, swearing solidly for 5 minutes without ever repeating myself - no wonder I'm barred from Church...)
Drink, arse, girls, feck!
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Re: Front Wheel Bearing/Hub Replacement
Thanks spider,
Yeah although if I'm honest I created the 'don't throw the toys out' section after walking round the garage picking all my toys up again and a few deep breaths .
It turned out that all my sulking and swearing was in vain as there was an easy work around to get to where I needed to be
Yeah although if I'm honest I created the 'don't throw the toys out' section after walking round the garage picking all my toys up again and a few deep breaths .
It turned out that all my sulking and swearing was in vain as there was an easy work around to get to where I needed to be
CLUB - Snuck off and bought a FFRR TDV8 Westminster, Mariana Black.
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Re: Front Wheel Bearing/Hub Replacement
I made use of this excellent write up today for my front right wheel, many thanks
A kind of recurring theme here, mine was rusted in solid too. I cleaned up the threads well and used shock&unlock to get it all moving and managed to get them all out fairly easily - you can feel when the rusty bit enters the thread, so I can see that all the time spent cleaning the ends of the bolts is time and effort saved in undoing them.
On to drifting the bearing assembly out. Dear lord, I actually bent one of the bolts I hit it so hard and so often...and nothing moved.
I found some small keen edged cold chisels in the father in laws tool collection and started working my way around the join with them, jumping to the opposite side each hit (as hours of the clock - 12,6,1,7,2,8,3,9 etc). After 20 minutes, bruised fingers and a half pint of sweat it started to move. 5 minutes later there was enough gap to get my 3' crow bar in and then it was all over in seconds.
I spent some cool down time with a green scouring pad de-rusting the inner face of the wheel assembly, and filed off all the burrs the cold chisel had lifted in the metal so the new hub would sit square. Then I sprayed all of the back of the new hub and the inside of the wheel assembly with copper grease and let it dry off - next time I'll be able to pry it out with a christmas cracker toy screwdriver
Thanks to the spray copper grease which is much finer than the stuff in a tube/tin (i did the splines with it too) everything slid easily into position by hand and I had it all torqued up and reassembled in no time.
So, all's well that ends well? No. I clipped the cv boot with the hammer and it split where I pinched it against the socket. No problem, I carry a bailcast cv boot in my kit, so got it out and lined up the cv band pliers on the ear...and the pliers bent and broke
Not sure what happened, they were fine last time I used them but this time the just folded like they were made of kitkat wrappers.
So, new bearing runs silent, new v8 discs are excellent, but now I have to replace a cv boot when my new tool arrives.
Could be worse, feels like good progress
A kind of recurring theme here, mine was rusted in solid too. I cleaned up the threads well and used shock&unlock to get it all moving and managed to get them all out fairly easily - you can feel when the rusty bit enters the thread, so I can see that all the time spent cleaning the ends of the bolts is time and effort saved in undoing them.
On to drifting the bearing assembly out. Dear lord, I actually bent one of the bolts I hit it so hard and so often...and nothing moved.
I found some small keen edged cold chisels in the father in laws tool collection and started working my way around the join with them, jumping to the opposite side each hit (as hours of the clock - 12,6,1,7,2,8,3,9 etc). After 20 minutes, bruised fingers and a half pint of sweat it started to move. 5 minutes later there was enough gap to get my 3' crow bar in and then it was all over in seconds.
I spent some cool down time with a green scouring pad de-rusting the inner face of the wheel assembly, and filed off all the burrs the cold chisel had lifted in the metal so the new hub would sit square. Then I sprayed all of the back of the new hub and the inside of the wheel assembly with copper grease and let it dry off - next time I'll be able to pry it out with a christmas cracker toy screwdriver
Thanks to the spray copper grease which is much finer than the stuff in a tube/tin (i did the splines with it too) everything slid easily into position by hand and I had it all torqued up and reassembled in no time.
So, all's well that ends well? No. I clipped the cv boot with the hammer and it split where I pinched it against the socket. No problem, I carry a bailcast cv boot in my kit, so got it out and lined up the cv band pliers on the ear...and the pliers bent and broke
Not sure what happened, they were fine last time I used them but this time the just folded like they were made of kitkat wrappers.
So, new bearing runs silent, new v8 discs are excellent, but now I have to replace a cv boot when my new tool arrives.
Could be worse, feels like good progress
Regards, Dom.
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2007 HSE Auto TDV6
Snorkel, Cyclonic air filter, GNVP Rock Sliders
78Ah Aux, Split charge, FBH Timer/Remote, Mantec sump plate
LED: Strobes, interior, camping, brake, running, sides
New Oil Pump, using 2SO at 1:400.